{"id":3531,"date":"2021-06-28T18:45:02","date_gmt":"2021-06-28T18:45:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/?p=3531"},"modified":"2026-04-14T12:16:33","modified_gmt":"2026-04-14T10:16:33","slug":"active-wool","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/active-wool\/","title":{"rendered":"Active Wool"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Harnessing the hygromorphic behaviour of wool to explore responsive shape change in textiles<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:14px\">Creative exploration for Lanas Trinidad (UY), in collaboration with Agustina Bello.<br>Funded by the Uruguayan Research and Innovation Agency (ANII) and IDB Lab.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\"><br>OCT. 2020 &#8211; MARCH 2021<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\"><br>* Presented at 2<sup>nd<\/sup> International Virtu-Wool Research Conference (AgResearch, NZ), 26-27 May 2021.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">** Showcased at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.ensadlab.fr\/actualites\/exposition-when-soft-actuators-meet-textiles-de-soft-matters\" data-type=\"link\" data-id=\"https:\/\/www.ensadlab.fr\/actualites\/exposition-when-soft-actuators-meet-textiles-de-soft-matters\">When soft actuators meet textiles<\/a> exhibition &#8211;&nbsp;SOFTWEAR days, Linz, Austria, 10-13 June 2025 (satellite event of EuroEAP 2025 &#8211; 13<sup>th<\/sup> international Conference on Soft Transducers and Electromechanically Active Polymers).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-cover alignfull is-light\"><video class=\"wp-block-cover__video-background intrinsic-ignore\" autoplay muted loop playsinline src=\"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/CintasLoops_applications-slide_2_for-web.mp4\" data-object-fit=\"cover\"><\/video><span aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-cover__background has-background-dim-0 has-background-dim\"><\/span><div class=\"wp-block-cover__inner-container is-layout-flow wp-block-cover-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center has-large-font-size\"><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:60px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Hygroscopicity is among the most remarkable properties of wool, enabling the outstanding performance of this fibre in terms of moisture management and temperature regulation. This advantageous hygroscopic behaviour is however accompanied by the swelling of the fibre, leading ultimately to hygral expansion in set yarns and fabrics\u2014i.e., their reversible change in dimensions in response to variations in their moisture content. Conferring poor dimensional stability to wool yarns and fabrics, hygral expansion has traditionally been perceived as a disadvantage in the manufacturing of wool products and a detriment to their appearance while in use under extreme moisture conditions. Thus, research efforts have predominantly been oriented towards predicting and controlling this phenomenon, with the aim of minimising its impact on end products.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video alignwide\"><video height=\"1080\" style=\"aspect-ratio: 1920 \/ 1080;\" width=\"1920\" autoplay loop muted src=\"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/FIBRAS04-closeup-30min-3fps-17mic_adjusted-speed-1.mp4\" playsinline><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>This research proposes a shift away from this perspective to look at the hygral expansion of wool as an opportunity rather than a detriment, reimagining this inherent capacity of the material as an active mechanism that can be favourably used to programme reversible, moisture-responsive, shape-change in textiles. Informed by current scientific understanding, and contextualized within contemporary narratives of active materials, this practice-based exploration aims at perceiving and experiencing the hygromorphic behaviour of wool in order to understand its practical implications. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video alignwide\"><video height=\"1080\" style=\"aspect-ratio: 1920 \/ 1080;\" width=\"1920\" autoplay loop muted src=\"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/hilos-creciendo-cami_ex-04_1foto3sec500_CON-crossdisolve.mp4\" playsinline><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video alignwide\"><video height=\"1332\" style=\"aspect-ratio: 2000 \/ 1332;\" width=\"2000\" autoplay loop muted src=\"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Loop_finales_2.mp4\" playsinline><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>Adopting a crafts approach and regarding textiles as hierarchical structures, the work seeks to explore strategies that amplify the behaviour of the fibre through the manipulation of spinning and fabric-construction parameters.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Preliminary results demonstrate the suitability of wool fibre to programme moisture-responsive shape transitions in woven and knitted textiles, and identify key parameters involved in their manifestation. Proofs of concept in the form of textile samples suggest the design potential of the hygromorphic behaviour of wool and outline routes for further exploration and analysis. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:60px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Example structures<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:14px\">Woven narrow textiles<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">W E T T I N G<br>oven-dry&nbsp; &gt;&gt;&nbsp; R.H. 99% &nbsp;| 12 hs<br><br>D R Y I N G<br>temp.: 30\u00baC &nbsp;| 12 hs<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video alignwide\"><video height=\"1080\" style=\"aspect-ratio: 1920 \/ 1080;\" width=\"1920\" autoplay loop muted src=\"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Cintas-sin-loops_Z-S_short_3_spot_small-for-web.mp4\" playsinline><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:35px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:14px\"><br>Woven narrow textiles with loops<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-small-font-size\">W E T T I N G<br>oven-dry&nbsp; &gt;&gt;&nbsp; R.H. 99% &nbsp;| 15 hs<br><br>D R Y I N G<br>temp.: 30\u00baC &nbsp;| 12 hs<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video alignwide\"><video height=\"1080\" style=\"aspect-ratio: 1920 \/ 1080;\" width=\"1920\" autoplay loop muted src=\"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/CintasLoops_z-y-s_mitad-y-mitad_3_Aug2025_small-for-web.prproj.mp4\" playsinline><\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:45px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-css-opacity is-style-wide\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-columns is-layout-flex wp-container-core-columns-is-layout-9d6595d7 wp-block-columns-is-layout-flex\">\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:15%\">\n<p class=\"has-shark-color has-text-color has-small-font-size\">SUPPORT<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"270\" height=\"268\" src=\"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/LT-1-e1628863803804.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3781\" style=\"width:65px;height:65px\" srcset=\"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/LT-1-e1628863803804.png 270w, https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/LT-1-e1628863803804-150x150.png 150w, https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/08\/LT-1-e1628863803804-50x50.png 50w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 270px) 100vw, 270px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-column is-layout-flow wp-block-column-is-layout-flow\" style=\"flex-basis:85%\">\n<p class=\"has-shark-color has-text-color has-small-font-size\">FUNDING<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized is-style-default\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"200\" height=\"156\" src=\"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/ANII-BidLab.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-3782\" style=\"width:98px;height:76px\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Harnessing [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5275,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,5],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3531","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-materials-exploration-design","category-responsive_materials"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3531","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3531"}],"version-history":[{"count":74,"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3531\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5344,"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3531\/revisions\/5344"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5275"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3531"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3531"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/anapineyro.com\/portfolio\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3531"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}